http://www.theguardian.com/books/
Jacek Hugo-Bader has hitchhiked the length of the Road of Bones, on a pilgrimage to the land of gold and gulags
The 2,025 km-long Kolyma Highway in the far east of Russia is known as the Road of Bones because the thousands of gulag prisoners who died building it lie just beneath its surface. Jacek Hugo-Bader hitchhiked its entire length, from Magadan (which features in Solzhenitsyn’s Gulag Archipelago) to industrial Yakutsk, in one of the most extreme landscapes on earth.
Polish journalist Hugo-Bader doesn’t do things by half: for his previous book, White Fever, he drove solo across Siberia from Moscow to Vladivostok in a modified UAZ-469 4×4. In winter. Mercifully, his Kolyma journey takes place in summer and autumn, but even during these months the ground retains a metre of permafrost, bears attack broken-down drivers in broad daylight, vodka is preferable but “highway liqueur” (radiator coolant) is acceptable and -60 is in Celsius, not Fahrenheit.
Here is a taste of a summer picnic by the mighty Indigirka river: “a black night, and the river is scary to look at – there are such a lot of ice floes coming down it. It’s rattling along like the Trans-Siberian express”.